Bill Allen
About
I feel lucky to have been able to create a life out of pursuing the things that I love to do for over 20 years now. I grew up playing in the Cascade Mountains of Oregon, and eventually made it up to Alaska where I found my first guiding job and eventually realized that I might be able to make a living out of it.
I’ve now been to places that I never dreamed I would ever get a chance to go, climbed all the Seven Summits twice, and stood on top of Mount Everest three times. I take great pleasure in sharing those experiences with climbers from around the world. Although I spend most of my time in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado now, Alaska is still in my blood and I’ve guided nearly 30 expeditions on Denali, and expeditions to Mount Foraker, Mount Huntington, Mount Fairweather, and many other peaks in Alaska.
I manage to get out of the Mountain Trip office just enough that I am able to work as a ski guide in the winter for both Telluride Helitrax and as part of our own backcountry ski touring program here in the San Juans. I spend my winters in Ophir, CO with my very understanding wife, Sonja, and our boy, Parker. We still spend part of each summer in Alaska running the day-to-day operations of our Denali season.
Activities
Denali West Buttress Expedition
Denali Park, AK
Join one of our small-sized teams, with a high guide-to-climber ratio, on the West Buttress of Denali—North America’s classic mountaineering objective. First pioneered in 1950 by the indefatigable Bradford Washburn, it has become the route of choice for most who choose to climb Denali due to its relative ease of access in this modern age of Air Taxis. Mountain Trip has helped more climbers achieve their Denali dreams than any other guide service. The legacy of Mountain Trip stretches back to before the National Park Service started the current concession system, and with the exception of 2020, Mountain Trip has been guiding climbers up the West Buttress each season since 1976.
Our West Buttress expeditions begin at 7,200 feet on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. They follow the Kahiltna north before ascending up onto the West Buttress proper. Though it’s not one of the most technical routes on the mountain, climbers must use a variety of mountaineering techniques to make their way around crevasses and up moderately steep terrain. The route culminates on summit day by following an incredible knife-edged ridge to the highest point in North America.
Denali is a place of superlatives. Carrying the heaviest pack of your life in the thin air of altitude at such a northern latitude can make West Buttress expeditions very physically challenging. Extreme winds, heavy snowfall and arctic cold all conspire to make it a serious undertaking. If you want to climb Denali, you need to be in top physical shape and prepared to suffer with a smile. To help you better prepare for the physical challenges of Denali, we provide a 24-week custom Mountaineering Training program designed by the professional coaches at Uphill Athlete to all of our Denali climbers (including guides!), so you can be confident that you will be in great shape, and your teammates will be as well.
Mountain Trip is a small company and we like it that way. It enables us to give personal, attentive service, and to provide our climbers with the most experienced guides on the mountain. No other Denali guide service has our stringent guidelines for whom we allow to lead West Buttress expeditions on the mountain. Our lead guides have a minimum of five Denali ascents under their boots—some have 20, 30, or more. Our office staff includes Denali guides who can answer your questions from their personal experience and love to talk about climbing big, cold mountains. Give us a call and climb Denali with us! All Denali expeditions are run by Mountain Trip Alaska, LLC, which is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve.
Seasonality
May-Jul
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San Juan Guided Backcountry Skiing
Telluride, CO
Ripping down dreamy powder lines in the San Juan Mountains is a one-of-a-kind experience, which is why Mountain Trip offers guided backcountry trips in the surreal terrain surrounding Telluride and Red Mountain Pass. Whether you’re looking to avoid resort crowds or have been eyeing a steep, technical descent of a beautiful couloir, we can craft an ideal day for you in the backcountry.
Our Guided Backcountry Skiing trip is geared toward skiers and splitboarders with experience in the backcountry, and who prefer to be joined by an experienced guide. We will provide route finding and terrain assessment, with less of a focus on coaching and in-depth teaching about any point of the process, and more of a focus on finding the best zones, with the best snow, for the best possible day of skiing or riding.
The snowpack in the San Juan Mountains is unique in many ways. With cold temperatures and high altitudes, we can find great powder during or long after a storm. Our local AMGA trained or certified guides are familiar with the local snowpack and are avalanche professionals with extensive training and experience. Routes are condition dependent, and guides will select the most appropriate route for the day.
Seasonality
Jan-Mar
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