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Overnight Alpine Summits in Teton Range
Grand Teton National Park Kelly, WY
Jun-Aug
While the Grand Teton is by far the most known Peak in the Tetons, this range has a number of objectives that are equally as spectacular.  Whether it be the East Ridge of Mt. Owen, the East Face Buck Mountain or the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, can design an overnight climb that will accommodate any goal or skill level.

SOUTHWEST COULOIR 12,804′ II, 3RD CLASS

Once the snow has melted out of the Southwest Couloir the climb to the summit becomes mostly a scramble with a few climbing moves here and there. The approach to the Southwest Couloir is long and arduous. We recommend most parties consider making an overnight of the climb and make a camp in the South Fork. Until the beginning of July this route offers steep snow climbing and great views of the Tetons. The climbing itself is not difficult but the day is long and the slopes exposed. We require participants have a snow class or equivalent experience.

NORTHWEST COULOIR – 12,514′, 4TH CLASS

Most people combine the South Teton with an ascent of the Middle Teton. The approach is long and arduous so one might as well sit on two summits for the work involved. We highly recommend that you consider camping in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon and make the asent of both these great peaks an overnight affair. Be advised that early season snow may require a snow class or equivalent experience.

 SOUTHEAST RIDGE – 11,938’ II, 4TH CLASS

Buck Mountain’s Southeast Ridge is one of the better easy technical routes to a major Teton summit. Although not particularly difficult, it is a fine example of classic Teton mountaineering. The approach is via Stewart Draw past Timberline Lake and requires snow climbing skills until mid-season. Buck Mountain is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.

EAST FACE AND RIDGE- BUCK MTN 11,938’ II, 4TH CLASS

Buck Mtn is the southern-most of the big granite Teton peaks. It is usually approached via the Stewart Draw and is much less traveled than the central peaks. The East Face, rising above Timberline Lake, is a straightforward snow climb in early and mid-season. A favorite alternate route is the adjacent East Ridge, a scenic technical climb combining snow with easy rock. It’s a great place for acquiring moutaineering experience in a spectacular setting. Buck Mtn is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.

KOVEN/EAST RIDGE – MT OWEN 12,928’ II, 5.4-5.6

Mt Owen is second only to the Grand Teton in elevation and many consider it to be a more difficult peak. Two rewarding routes, the Koven and the East Ridge, offer the moderately experienced climber the best in classic mountaineering. Because the routes are the same up to the summit formation, they are included together. The East Ridge tackles Mt. Owen’s summit via rock that is a bit more challenging than the line the Koven Route follows to the top. Snow climbing skills are required for much of the season to negotiate steep snowfields and couloirs. The routes enter the fascinating cirque of the Teton Glacier and the views of the North Face of the Grand are very impressive. Mt Owen is ascended on a three-day trip with a camp carried high into Glacier Gulch. The second day is usually long and strenuous; a second night at camp is not required before descending.
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